Cum Pane:
Meditations on Bread, Life, & Death
Initially created in December 2023 for the class Neoliberal Globalization & Health, Epilogue added in April 2024
In the summer of 2023, I spent time visiting with my husband’s family at their home in Mendrisiotto, Switzerland, a district situated in the only Italian speaking canton of Switzerland, just 15 minutes from the Italian border. Having abandoned my camera for most of the previous year, I focused on personal photography projects. Over the precious seven years with my partner, I heard different stories of the personalities that saturate his family’s world and had an informal, mental list of possible visual stories should the opportunity ever arise. That’s how I came to spend a very early morning photographing Gian, the baker of Cabbio.
I knew only a little about Gian before meeting in his workspace on the morning of July 18, 2023. Folks would talk of the quiet, reserved baker who made the bread for most of the valley but never took time off. They joke about how he never wanted to rest, how he needed to be begged to leave the village for a night to watch his favorite hockey team play in Lugano, the bigger city about 45 minutes away. I knew that he worked by himself and that no one had ever asked to photograph him before.
As someone who loves food and food people, I felt drawn to Gian’s work. That said, I didn’t have a clean narrative in mind for the final photos. Watching and listening that morning, I felt like a scavenging horticulturist, collecting throw-away comments and moments like seeds to be planted another day.
Over the coming months, even without my careful tending, the seeds began to grow. I couldn’t stop thinking about bread both as a material thing in the world and as an analytic. Broad conversations - on labor, environmental, health, politics, community - could be opened by deploying bread as concept-work. (Stoler)
I thought about the spatiality and temporality of bread, the geography etched by its circulation and what hitchhikers traveled with it - town gossip, the feelings of relationality, the promise of more connection, future nourishment - and the histories linked by shared recipes, methods, and even equipment. I thought about how bread isn’t constituted just with edible ingredients but how Gian’s labor itself is raw material, how he pours his labor, which is to say his life, into each dough so that others may fuel themselves further - life for life. I thought about how bread isn’t a contextless object and is responsive to the changes in politics, society, and climate. I thought about how the knowledge of baking is one of survival that is inherited, how our procuring and consuming bread is integral in nurturing communal neural pathways, which is to say communal health. I thought about how bread invites pleasure. I thought about how much bread has been demonized and/or compartmentalized. I thought about my own disdain for celebrity and mainstream diet culture, fueled by the health community, and their hyper surveillance of the minutiae of foodways. I thought about the over essentializing of the particular formula of bread rather than its holistic impact. I thought about how health loves talking about structural violence when it's nostalgic rather than urgent and present.
I thought about how these were fundamentally biological processes.
And then, in the weeks following October 7 which continues into this very second like a sadistic fever dream, the contradictions, absences, limits, and misinterpretations of the mainstream global and public health community’s evaluations of food - and specifically bread - and their reactions to real-time political violence took on a sharp, clarifying edge. The inadequacy of terms like social determinants of health and even structural violence felt pronounced in their inability to fully capture the reality of Gaza, not to mention the advances of settler colonialism in the West Bank and in the Occupied Territories.
While health blogs continue to post blogs debating if, when, and how bread is healthy and while global health leaders like the Gates and Rockefeller foundation and Partners in Health wax poetic at COP28 about food resilience, their remarkable silence on Gaza points to the intentional amnesia and violence of Health. Of those organizations that do speak out - Save the Children, the UNHCR, UNRWR - their language remains committed to the hallucinatory notion of bare life. The more the logics of “humanitarian crisis” are affirmed, the more deeper political understandings are precluded. Too, international organizations seem to resign themselves to Palestinian death, oblivious to how people find ways to keep living.
In all of this, bread is a constant motif. Starvation is quantified by daily bread access and consumption. Bakeries and bakers are bombed by Israeli forces. The agricultural fields of Gaza which produced the grain needed for bread have too been martyred. Children offer their meager bread allocation to journalists. Women design clay ovens to keep baking when their homes have been flattened.
And then I think of Davide and what bread helps us see.
The thesis of this project is that, by using bread as metaphor and point of entry, it's possible to ascertain the violent absences of global health structures, actions, and discourses. It is a commentary on how much the emphasis of researching and analyzing life and health at its smallest fragments becomes a distraction. This attempts to stop extrapolating life and to see life in its essence, which bread symbolizes. It’s also a meditation on the connectedness of the global algorithm of life and death and an insistence on embedding global health with an analysis of power, history, colonialism, racism, and racial capitalism.
The thesis is that health so often, usually, misses the point. And bread, given its history, form, and materiality, is an apt vehicle for refusing abstraction.
All said, though, the zine is methodologically experimentation. My fundamental understanding of our world’s calculus of life and death is something I feel rather than can linearly communicate. I hold within me a constellation of mental snapshots and experiences that connect and overlap and teach in ways difficult to describe. I often try to explain things to their n-th degree as to leave no room for interpretation. I’m challenging myself to let go of that in this zine. I’m hoping to convey sensation rather than talking points. For this, I’m taking my inspiration from an experimental piece of fiction, Out of the Sugar Factory by Dorothee Elmiger. (Quoted in the zine.) In that, I’m trying to give myself the permission to reject narrative reduction.
Epilogue: I originally created this project in December of 2023 as a way to document, contextualize, and archive the horrors I saw unfolding in Palestine, at the hands of the Israeli government which financial, diplomatic, and material support from Western countries, specifically the United State. In the four months since I drafted this piece, the genocide of Palestinians and the escalation of 100+ years of settler colonialism, apartheid, and state-sponsored death continues and worsens. The number of deaths, disablements, and horrors only continue. Deaths from starvation have now been reported. We witness what is now known as the Bread Massacre, in which IOF soldiers openly fired upon Palestinians attempted to reach life-giving supplies and food, which they sadistically recorded and shared online. In this massacre alone, over 100 people were martyred and over 750 injured. Israel continues to block food from reaching the North of Gaza, while claiming they are not. Rather than hold Israel accountable, Western governments drop food aid from the sky, the packages themselves during as weapons of death.
Despite this, Palestinians - both in the Occupied Territories and in the diaspora - continue to insist on their right to life. They continue caring for and protecting one another. They continue to live, despite all attempts to make it otherwise.
From the river to the sea, Palestine will be free.
Materials cited or referenced, and works which offered theoretical or emotional inspiration:
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———. “Spread the Word 🗣️📢 Share Our Work with Your Community Online and Offline. Word of Mouth Is a Great Way to Inspire Others to Join Our Movement for Health Care as a Human Right! Let Us Know How Your Supporting PIH This #GivingTuesday 🧡 Https://T.Co/7d2NpvFYCX.” Tweet. Twitter, November 28, 2023. https://twitter.com/PIH/status/1729511605719744765.
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